ARIZONA • COLORADO • FLORIDA
Conventional Refinance: Lower Your Rate or Remove PMI
A conventional refinance replaces your current mortgage with a new conventional loan—commonly to lower your rate, change your term, remove mortgage insurance (PMI) when eligible, or switch from an adjustable rate to a fixed rate. We’ll compare scenarios and show you the cleanest path based on payment, total cost, and break-even. No pressure. No credit check unless you choose to proceed.
No obligation. No credit check unless you choose to proceed.
- Lower rate / payment
See scenarios side-by-side before you decide. - PMI removal strategy
When equity and guidelines support it. - Break-even clarity
Know the timeline for costs vs savings.
No obligation. No credit check unless you choose to proceed.
What Is a Conventional Refinance?
A conventional refinance is a new mortgage (non-government) that replaces your existing loan. Most conventional refinances are rate-and-term refinances—meaning the goal is to improve the interest rate, change the loan term, or adjust the loan structure (like moving from ARM to fixed) without taking meaningful cash out.
If your goal is to access equity as cash, you’ll typically want a different structure. See Cash-Out Refinance.
Why Homeowners Refinance Conventionally
- Lower interest rate: reduce payment or cut long-term interest.
- Change loan term: shorten term to pay off faster or extend for payment relief.
- Remove PMI: when equity/value and guidelines support it.
- Switch ARM to fixed: lock in payment stability.
- Consolidate second liens: combine loans to simplify payments (scenario-dependent).
Rate/Term vs Cash-Out (Which Do You Need?)
Rate/term refinance is best when you want a better rate, a different term, or a lower payment—without taking meaningful cash out. Cash-out refinance is best when you need a lump sum from equity for renovations, debt payoff, or reserves.
Not sure which is best? Start at the Refinance Hub and we’ll compare both paths side-by-side.
Credit, Income, and Approval Factors (Plain English)
Conventional refinance approvals typically depend on the full borrower profile: credit history, income stability, debt-to-income, and your equity position (loan-to-value). In many cases, stronger credit and lower LTV can improve pricing and simplify the file.
- Credit: score, history, and overall risk
- DTI: monthly obligations vs income
- Equity/LTV: impacts eligibility and rate
- Income: W-2, 1099, self-employed (documentation varies)
- Assets: bank statements, reserves, and large deposits (if any)
Closing Costs + Break-Even (The Key Decision)
Refinancing usually includes third-party costs (appraisal, title, escrow) plus lender costs. The best way to decide is to compare monthly savings to total costs and find your break-even point.
- Example: Save $250/month and total costs are $5,000 → break-even is about 20 months.
- Rule of thumb: If you plan to keep the home longer than break-even, refinancing often makes sense.
Documentation Checklist (Typical)
- Mortgage statement (and/or payoff information)
- Two most recent pay stubs + 2 years W-2s (or self-employed documentation)
- Two months bank statements (all pages)
- Photo ID
- Homeowners insurance information
- Explanation for any large deposits (if applicable)
How the Process Works
- Quote + strategy: run scenarios (payment, term, cost) based on your goal.
- Docs once: collect clean documents up front to reduce conditions.
- Appraisal + underwriting: keep the file moving with clear communication.
- Clear to close: sign, fund, and your new loan replaces your old one.
Start a Free Conventional Refinance Review
We’ll compare rate/term scenarios and PMI strategy (if applicable), then show break-even so you can decide with confidence. No obligation. No credit check unless you choose to proceed.
No obligation. No credit check unless you choose to proceed.
Conventional Refinance FAQs
How do I know if refinancing is worth it?
Can a conventional refinance remove PMI?
Do I need an appraisal for a conventional refinance?
Is a conventional refinance better than FHA or VA?
Licensed in AZ, CO, and FL. Not all products are available in all states. No obligation. No credit check unless you choose to proceed.